Olympic Travel

With the 2008 Olympics fast approaching, China is bracing itself for an influx of foreign tourists, and the government is implementing a range of measures to ensure Beijing life for the laowai (foreigner) is as comfortable and hassle-free as possible. However, those foreigners planning to explore the wilder, less urbanized side of China before or after the Games may be in for a few surprises.

China has kept itself to itself for thousands of years, and foreigners still find it difficult to penetrate the inner depths of this fascinating and enigmatic country. There is a great deal to discover in the world’s most populous nation, with a fascinating and diverse culture, some stunning landscapes, and magnificent examples of dynastic and religious architecture. Although emphasis has recently been placed on improving tourist facilities and infrastructure, getting around, and finding some solitude, can sometimes be a bit of a problem.

While organized tours are still the favored way to explore China, independent travel is slowly becoming easier, and recommended for a more “authentic”, if less pampered, experience. Transport infrastructure in most parts of China is pretty well developed; airplanes are modern, safe and convenient, and 70,000 kilometres of new track have recently been laid for a rail system that links all major destinations and most of the less-frequented ones.

There are two major problems when it comes to independent travel in China – language and bureaucracy. Even though many English signs have been added to Chinese streets, subways, and airports, they’re usually in phoneticized Chinese, or “pinyin”. The signs may look like English, but for the inexperienced trying to pronounce them correctly is usually a futile exercise, especially when you throw in regional accents. The Chinese expression “ping ding zi”, which roughly translates to “banging your head against a wall”, sums up the experience nicely.

If you are planning on independent Chinese travel, being able to speak some basic Chinese before you travel is pretty essential. Bring a map with Chinese and English on it, and certainly pack a decent guide book like Lonely Planet. Many larger hotels have agents that can speak English, so make use of them. Paying a small commission is certainly preferable to queuing up for hours for a ticket at the train station, only to be told the train is sold out until the following week. Always make sure your first name and surname are written out on tickets in the right order.

In terms of buying a ticket, flying is infinitely easier than train travel in China, especially on popular routes. It’s impossible to buy return tickets, and sometimes impossible to buy tickets until three days before you travel. Do not lose your train ticket on the train because you will need it to leave the station at the other end. For overnight journeys sleeper class (as opposed to seats) is highly recommended.

With a hefty dose of patience, some extreme body language and the usual kindness of strangers, experiencing China alone, with a partner, or with a small group of friends can be a richly rewarding experience. At times it will undoubtedly be bewildering and frustrating, but for many it’s a price worth paying to get away from the crowd.

Images: Daniel Allen

Useful sites:

Travel China Guide

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